Lunar Lore ~ Old Vines, Roots and Arcane Alchemy

by Caroline Dunn

Now there may still be much contention over whether man really did land on the moon on 20th July 1969, but one thing certainly happened that day that changed the course of history. John and Erril Kurtz purchased a small block of young Shiraz vines at Light Pass that would become Lunar Block, named in honour of the great event that may or may not have taken place on the day the vineyard was signed over. Lunar Block produces the finest Shiraz in the Kurtz Family Vineyards stable - a unique, expressive wine displaying all the hallmarks of longevity and site distinction. The vines were up to ten years old when the block was purchased, making them now some of the oldest vines on the Kurtz property.

So with the vines hitting the 50-year-old mark, Lunar Block starts to face its own challenges. Vineyards reaching this age begin to lose vigour and can become commercially unviable. Eutypa dieback, a widespread grapevine fungal disease is an ever-present threat in wine regions the world over, resulting in stunted shoots, decreased productivity and eventually the death of the vine. Careful and considered pruning is required to maintain vine health and prevent further spread of the fungus. Unfortunately Eutypa is an adversary the Barossa is all too familiar with, something dedicated vineyard custodians, such as Steve Kurtz, son of John and Erril, know only too well. Steve is undergoing painstaking layering and replanting using pruning cuttings to re-establish lost vines and improve the overall health and vigour of the block; a practice required in many old Barossa vineyards.

Australia is lucky enough to be one of the few countries in the world that still has extensive numbers of old vines planted pre-phylloxera and on their own roots. And the Barossa is blessed to have its fair share, staking its claim to some of the oldest, which were most likely introduced from Europe by the early settlers. It is believed the oldest Shiraz vines in Australia are to be found in the Langmeil vineyard, planted by Christian Auricht in 1843; and Penfold’s Block 42 in the Kalimna vineyard, first planted in the mid 1880s, is thought to accommodate the oldest Cabernet Sauvignon in the world.

So does it really make a difference how old a vine is? The Barossa Grape and Wine Association thinks so. The BGWA’s Old Vine Charter, an inventory of the Barossa’s remaining old vines, classifies vines depending on their age. According to the Charter, an Old Vine is one that has reached 35 years of age and has shown consistent quality, proven over many vintages. The root structure and trunk thickness encourage diversity of flavour and character. This is well represented by Lunar Block, which has developed a captivating character all its own. Something that can never be replicated from another block or vineyard.

Survivor Vines are those which have reached 70 years of age. They have weathered both natural and man-made storms, such as the 1980s Vine Pull and have come through triumphant. Centenarians are low yielding vines planted over 100 years ago when dry farming techniques demanded careful site selection, and have proved resilient in the face of adversity. And lastly we have the Ancestor Vines, those that at 125 years old or more are living tributes to the early Barossa pioneers, and which, through their genetic material, have helped populate the Barossa with irreplaceable, remarkable grapevine stocks, and are among the oldest producing vineyards in the world. I doubt I’ll be around when Lunar reaches Ancestor status but no doubt, the tender loving care of the Kurtz Family and their descendants will ensure she makes it.

Some of the great sensory advantages that old vines lend to the wine they produce are structure, balance, concentration and power, often attributed to reduced crop levels and ancient root systems. There is generally a more layered complexity, and a maturity and depth to the mid palate not often seen with young vines. But then there is also that indefinable, elusive character they possess. A uniqueness. An individuality. A character and personality all their own. An arcane alchemy resulting in wines of revered distinction.

Which brings us back to Lunar Block. In 1999 Steve Kurtz decided it was too good a parcel not to make into his own wine, so he ventured out of the vineyard and dipped his toe into winemaking, adding a new element to the Kurtz Family quiver of talents. And we can now reap the rewards of his decision. Not too many wines can claim that they are crafted from a single vineyard block, but here is a wine that expresses its viticultural roots year after year. The latest release of Lunar Block Shiraz is the 2006 vintage, made with minimal winemaking intervention and matured in fine French oak, this is a wine of merit and pedigree. A supple, medium to full bodied red from an outstanding Barossa vintage, rich in distinctive blueberry and black fruits with hints of dried mint, sage, spice and liquorice. The palate is voluptuous and warm, the oak perfectly balanced, and long, fine velvety tannins give the wine line, structure and backbone.

For more information on Kurtz Family Vineyards visit their website at www.kurtzfamilyvineyards.com.au

Try Kurtz Family Vineyards wines at Collective Barossa, 47 Murray Street, Tanunda and check out their blog at http://collectivebarossa.blogspot.com/

For more information on the BGWA Old Vine Charter visit http://www.barossa.com/bgwa/